Questions about ClubSport V2 Pedals

[Frank Oreskov]

I got a few questions about the ClubSport V2 Pedals and I hope someone here know the answer:

1. Is there any way to screw the pedals onto a frame so they don't move around?

2. Where does the cord come out from the pedals? And is there a converter or seperate cables to allow the pedals to be plugged in via USB for the PC, DIN-plug for the Porsche/CSR wheels and RJ plug for the CSR Elite/CSW?

3. I think I read somewhere that the pedals are adjustable in travel and angle, is that correct? I've seen the video manual from Fanatec showing the pre-tension screw for the springs to adjust stiffness, but is that how the travel is adjusted or is that by moving what hole on the pedal-arm the sensors sit in?

Frank

[Frank Oreskov]

Ok now I've had a chance to look for myself, there is only a USB cable and a PS/2 cable so no way to connect the pedals into the CSW unless that comes with a converter (I'm still waiting for news on the delivery date).

I also see I'm going to need a way to fix the pedals, they tilt up when trying to get the last 5% brake-pressure. I must also say, the brakes feel like I hit a full stop very quickly, a very non-linear brake-feel (as good as I could try due to the pedals moving around and not sitting in the racing seat). There are two containers with oil included but I got no idea what to do with them, although right now I'm writing this I'm wondering if I'm not supposed to fill it in the damper since that might be empty from the factory, hmmm.

Frank

[Rouke]

1.
what kind of surface are you on Frank? carpet or a wooden floor or summit?

if carpet, check if the bottom of the pedals have a extractable comb which grabs the carpet, some pedals have that allready.
and i duno about mounting it to a frame, doesnt it become too high then? can't you use ducttape lol or put something inbeween the pedals back and the wall so it wont move forward.

About the brake pedal, some people put a softbal into the back of the pedal just to give abit more feel and resistance.


The rest of that stuff, i dont know man.

[Kat]

Frank - I did a quick trawl through the Fanatec website and got most of the answers .

The oil I'm guessing is different grades for the clutch pedal.

The brakes are load cell so little movement - all about pressure - but do have an adjuster dial I believe.

regarding movement - looks like they're designed to be bolted to something? Maybe get some MDF and bolt them to that (and make it large enough that the pedals don't slide/lift).

[Martin Cooper]

found this

Users can adjust the brake pedal by changing the silicone oil and the viscosity alongside the spring tension

http://www.virtualr.net/fanatec-clubspo ... -announced

[Frank Oreskov]

1.
what kind of surface are you on Frank? carpet or a wooden floor or summit?

if carpet, check if the bottom of the pedals have a extractable comb which grabs the carpet, some pedals have that allready.
and i duno about mounting it to a frame, doesnt it become too high then? can't you use ducttape lol or put something inbeween the pedals back and the wall so it wont move forward.

It's not sliding forward but tilting, so I need to make a stand for it.

About the brake pedal, some people put a softbal into the back of the pedal just to give abit more feel and resistance.

I used that for my first pedals, MS Sidewinder FF, but these are already stiff enough, and that's with the adjustable spring at it's softest setting. The thing I thought was weird was the degree of non-linearity is much heavier than real-life cars. It's like the first 80% travel distance you get 20-30% stiffness, then the last 20% it skyrockets to 100% and the travel is stopped like there was a physical stop, unlike any real car I've driven. I'm seriously anxious about how it'll feel in the sim when I get a wheel and the pedals don't move.

Frank - I did a quick trawl through the Fanatec website and got most of the answers .

Yeah I'm not as good at internet-searches as I used to be 10 years ago

The oil I'm guessing is different grades for the clutch pedal.

It's only the brake that has a oil-damper which I think is to adjust how fast or slow the pedal moves but no info on what type of oil is in it already.

The brakes are load cell so little movement - all about pressure - but do have an adjuster dial I believe.

There is an adjuster dial but I got no idea what I should try to adjust first to get a good/real feel, the pre-tension spring, the damper-oil or the adjuster. It's like a car-setup, should I adjust wings first, ride-height or spring-rates. I'll try searching forum for it, maybe someone at iRacing has done some serious research on the topic.

regarding movement - looks like they're designed to be bolted to something? Maybe get some MDF and bolt them to that (and make it large enough that the pedals don't slide/lift).

There are 4 holes (although you have to pierce the sticky tape used for the rubber-feet) but they're just holes unlike the G25-pedals where there is, uhm, what's-the-word, shapes to screw a screw in to hold it. Here I'll need to use a bolt and washers.

Martin: I hadn't thought about looking at user-made videos and reviews, thanks for the link.

Edit: I earlier thought that the damper must have oil in it since there was resistance, I then remember that being airtight there would be resistance anyway. I have now filled the thick oil in it but not that much difference off-hand, but man that silicone oil is slippery, and I can't fit the base of the spring back on the retension-screw, it's a little bit too small.

I also forgot to reply to Rouke's comment about mounting the pedals on a frame. I've had the pedals on a plastic box almost since I first got a wheel in 2000. It fits with the vertical distance between the floor and the seat in a real car. I can't really drive comfortably with the pedals on the actual floor in the room.

Frank

[Frank Oreskov]

I've finally gotten the G25-wheel back and I've tried some laps around Mexico
Throttle sticks just like the G27-pedals I had, and the throttle-pedal is wonky in it's hinges, besides being very slippery which also goes for the foot-rest which only makes the problem worse.
I don't suppose anyone can tell me a way to fix these problems? I doubt it's broken so it can't be fixed under warranty but it ruins the feel and intuitive way I drive.

I also tried the load-cell brakes, first time ever trying one of these, and to be honest I don't see what the hype is about. It's got a stiffness and travel that makes the brake-pedal in my mom's Lancer (and 206 and Orion) feel like the Impreza I test-drove in 2007, which felt like a clutch-pedal (feather-light with no feel and an age-long travel). Without G-forces I got no idea when I'm braking at maximum or how much I'm adjusting the brakeforce when trying to prevent lock-up. I really don't see me driving very fast with these, especially not since I keep hitting the throttle when I go for the brakes due to the throttle-pedal plate getting in the way. First time I pressed hard on the brakes I also heard something metallic sound like it broke, I hope it was the damper-spring that just moved.

Frank

[Kat]

You do know you can move the face plates around don't you frank? You can unbolt them and move them so you have a spacing between the pedals that works for you. For example move the throttle to the right and clutch to the left should give you more space to play with (assuming they are all in the middle at the moment).

[Martin Cooper]

besides being very slippery which also goes for the foot-rest which only makes the problem worse.

Slippery pedals Frank? I cure slippery with summat like these when racing


come in handy if/when I go karting too